NR2003 Momo Setup

This is the Momo setup guide from the Papy forums. It was written by a guy named Chad Sparks

Now, a few things about the Momo setup guide….

1. It recommends using “dead zone” settings. I’ve found that I don’t need those, and certainly don’t recommend any dead zone number (for Steering, Brake, or Accelerator) above 2%.

2. Force Feedback is highly overrated, and can actually mess you up. I’d recommend no more than what you need to “feel” the tires and sway. Usually for me, that number is somewhere between 10 and 18 or so. Certainly not 60%, or whatever it is that this guide recommends.

Other than those things, for a new Momo user, I’d try to follow this guide as closely as possible. At least until you can get more experience.

Start/Settings/Control Panel/Game Controllers.


Double Left Click on the MOMO, then click the Settings button (bottom right).

Then set these options…

Combined – unticked (ie: no checkmark) [this allows your brake and gas pedals to be on a separate axis, which is important to have]

Enable Force Feedback – ticked (ie: checkmark it) [this allows force feedback in games duh]

Overall Effects Strength – 97% [the reason for 97% and NOT 100% is a long and complicated explanation, but in short it helps oscillations from happening]

Spring Effects Strength – 0% [no Papyrus sims use this setting and oddly enough, if you set it to anything other than 0% you will get undesirable effects]

Damper Effects Strength – 0% [very VERY important to set this to 0%, this is probably THE most important setting, as it will greatly increase notchiness and wheel twitches, even though the Papyrus sims do not exactly enable it]

Enable Centering Spring – ticked [you are going to find this strange, because in the next setting I tell you to set it to 0%, which is odd because why not just untick it? well, there’s a reason and here it is… if you don’t tick this option and also don’t have Damping set -which if your going with these settings you won’t- then a strange phenomenon happens, you will find that if you turn your wheel rather sharply, the resistance of the wheel just “gives out” which is not something you want to happen. I will also admit that having this unchecked does appear to give slightly better forces -SLIGHTLY- but the repercussions just aren’t worth it for the payoff. so in the end check this option]

Centering Spring Strength – 0% [this is IMPORTANT! I know it’s weird, but you must set it to 0% – read above option for better explanation]

Then in your Logitech Wingman Profiler, create a Nascar 2003 profile and then set these settings as follows…

Steering Wheel Sensitivity to 33% [the reason you want to go down from the default 50% to 33% is because at 50% the wheel is too sensitive to tiny wheel adjustments… which is not realistic. drive your car and notice how far you have to turn your wheel… the MOMO have a large radius to turn, it’s a shame most people only move it 5 degrees to either side. this setting should allow more precise driving and overall smoothness as well – and you can go down even lower if you wish, to say, 25% if you want to have even more movement, but I suggest 33% for starters at least, get used to that and go more later if you like the effect]
{I USE 46%}

Steering Wheel Dead Zone – 2% [another long explanation would be needed and I don’t feel like telling, but in short this also helps oscillations and twitchiness] {I DO NOT USE THIS SETTING}

Accelerator Sensitivity – 55% [strangely, this option is the exact opposite of the Steering, INCREASING this option from the default 50% to 55% makes the gas less sensitive to the immediate input, in other words, you have to push down farther before the car gets more power. the default 50% is a little touchy – when you barely touch the pedal the car can spin out. 55% helps this from happening and overall gives a more natural and fine tune approach]

Accelerator Dead Zone – 2% [much the same reasoning as above, this helps from keeping your car getting to much gas too fast]

Brake Sensitivity – 55% [exact same reasons as accelerator, increasing this to 55% helps your brakes from locking up to fast. one word of note though is that I have modified my brake pedal to include the squash ball instead of the spring, so that may make a difference in your setup. just note that increasing this gives less immediate braking and can help if your tires are locking up too easily under braking]

Brake Dead Zone – 2% [same reasons as all the others dead zones]

Now, in Nascar 2003, enable the Force Feedback option under the Controls tab and you should run this setting in between 35-100 (60 being most common setting) depending on the track and more importantly, on your setup for that track (and of course how strong you like your forces).

I know this is a pain to have to do at each individual track, but depending on your setup you will need to adjust the strength of the forces in game between each track change.

Just start out from 50 and work from there. the key to adjusting strength is this… if the wheel has a “notchy” feel, lower the setting till it JUST goes away, if it doesn’t have a notchy feel, then raise it till you feel the notchiness and then lower it till it just goes away again. In essence giving you the most forces while remaining smooth.

A few things to help you judge if you have “too much force feedback”

1. If your Momo has a “notchy” feel when you turn the wheel
2. If you find yourself over-correcting a spin, or late in correcting a spin
3. If it is challenging to counter the “wheel-pull” at certain tracks

Some tracks are different, so you’ll have to move your FF setting from time to time. But if you “notice” the force feedback at all, your setting is probably too high.

Leave Damping completely off in game… but *IF* and only if you are oscillating exiting a corner on the straight, then you can slightly and slowly increase it in game till you stop oscillating, but I doubt many of you will have oscillation problems because the settings we set up earlier should rid you of any. This is the only good thing Damping is good for, so try not to use it unless you have to because it hurts your performance elsewhere. and again, NEVER EVER EVER use the Damping setting in windows, the one found in the control panel… and only use the in-game damping if you absolutely must (as this can mask the real forces and it also increases notchiness by a factor of 3 fold).

Leave latency off in game (0%). It only provides fake and incorrect forces at usually the wrong time anyways and can definitely get in the way of things and effect the overall impressions of the wheel with the rest of these settings described here. if you honestly feel like forces are literally coming too late (which I find very hard to believe) and you feel like you absolutely have to add to this setting, go ahead and increase it… with 25 being your absolute max (15 the preferred max) and 0% being the optimal.

Note: after setting up your momo reboot your system THEN try it out, sometimes you have to set things up twice if you dont reboot your system.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s